Holidays are a wonderful way to bring the differences between cultures into focus.
I spent Christmas Eve in real Tokyo style – in a proper Japanese queue. I waited over an hour to slowly proceed through another Tokyo tradition – the “light-up”, this one at the Tokyo Midtown complex in Roppongi.
Christmas is certainly very much on the radar here, as any anime fan knows, but it’s a remarkably different experience. It’s a work and school day, for starters, and the general view of the holiday is something akin to a romantic time for couples to express their love openly (in whatever way they see fit). Christmas decorations are everywhere, and so is the unique Japanese take on Christmas carols. But it all feels very different.
Somehow or another, KFC (it was still Kentucky Fried Chicken then) convinced the Japanese about 40 years ago that fried chicken was the cornerstone of the American Christmas (almost universally referred to as “Xmas” here) experience. Today, people call KFC weeks in advance to reserve their fried chicken for Xmas Eve, and line up for as long as hour to buy it. The other food item that the Japanese have decided is essential American Xmas gear is strawberry shortcake. On my way home from the station last night I saw – just as I have in many an anime – mostly young workers in front of bakeries and konbini hawking shortcakes, all in Santa hats and some in full Santa suits (I felt too bad for them to take pictures). Another, somewhat more traditional Tokyo Christmas tradition is the "Christmas Market” – a Japanese take on a German Christmas Fair. Having never been to one I can’t speak to how authentic these are, but the ones at Skytree and Roppongi Hills were interesting – full of overpriced German beer and sausage platters, as well as stalls selling Christmas trinkets. The one at Roppingi Hills is sponsored by the German Consulate, so presumably they’ve advised on some of the details.
I observed Christmas in traditional Tokyo - Ginza - and also the new Tokyo – at Midtown, Roppongi Hills and at Soramachi, the dazzling complex at the foot of the Sky Tree. You’ll see pictures of both the state of the art Skytree and the rather dated Tokyo Tower (easily visible from Roppongi) below. Frankly, poor old Tokyo Tower looks quite sad and pathetic by comparison. Skytree is hugely impressive even from a distance, but up close it’s a stunner – not just incredibly tall but a very handsome design, especially when lit up at night. Not only that, but the shopping and entertainment complex is one of the best I’ve ever been to. They’ve managed to make it not only architecturally interesting, but to make the shopping itself interesting. It’s full of places that sell Japanese goods rather than generic international chains, with a good many items only available there. They’ve also put together an outstanding restaurant lineup, including a second branch of the hottest ramen-ya in Tokyo and the first Tokyo outpost of a beloved Hokkaido kaitenzushi restaurant.
If there’s one thing that the Japanese are good at, it’s designing shopping complexes, and Tokyo Midtown is also very impressive. Their light-up was easily the best of the ones I visited (Roppongi Hills and Yebisu Garden Place – home of the beer museum - being the others), and their shopping complex also one of the more impressive I’ve seen here. I imagine these places would be even better if you had money to spend at them, but even for people-watching and window-shopping (plus grazing at the many bakeries) they’re also a fun way to spend a couple of hours.
Merry Xmas to all, and thanks for your support this year. Now Tokyo gets ready for a much more significant holiday here – New Year’s – and I really look forward to experiencing my first Japanese Hatsumode, as well as my first Comiket. It should be a fun week – after that, it’s off to Kyoto for a few days. Stay tuned for more updates.